A white SEAT car drives along a Slovenian highway, captured from the rear as it moves through a calm rural landscape. The smooth roadway, roadside fencing, and leafless trees in the background reflect a typical scene on Slovenian motorways, highlighting everyday travel and modern mobility in the countryside.
Photo by Vid Adam on Unsplash

Renting a Car in Europe: Manual Transmission, Toll Roads, and ZTL Zones

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Renting a car in Europe opens up the countryside, villages, and scenic routes that trains and buses simply cannot reach. But driving in Europe comes with its own set of rules, costs, and surprises that catch many North American drivers off guard. From manual transmissions to automated camera zones that mail you fines months later, here is what you need to know before picking up the keys.

Manual vs Automatic Transmission

In Europe, manual transmission is the default. If you book a car without specifying, you will almost certainly get a stick shift. Automatic cars are available at every major rental agency, but they typically cost 30-60% more and have limited availability, especially at smaller locations. Book automatics well in advance. If you can drive manual, you will save significant money and have far more vehicle options. If you cannot drive manual, do not try to learn on the winding roads of the Amalfi Coast.

International Driving Permit

An International Driving Permit (IDP) is technically required in Italy, Spain, Austria, Germany, Greece, and several other countries. It is a translation of your home license, not a separate license. In the US, you can get one from AAA for about $20 with a passport photo. In practice, many rental agencies will hand you keys with just your regular license, but police stops or accidents without an IDP can create serious legal complications. Italy is particularly strict about enforcement. Get one. It takes 15 minutes.

CDW Insurance: The Biggest Cost Decision

Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) is where rental companies make enormous profits. The CDW offered at the counter typically costs €15-30 per day and still leaves a deductible (excess) of €800-2,000. You have three alternatives: your credit card may include rental car coverage (check before you travel, as some premium cards cover European rentals including CDW), you can buy a standalone excess insurance policy online from companies like iCarhireinsurance.com or RentalCover for €3-5 per day, or you can accept the full rental company coverage. Whatever you choose, decide before arriving at the counter where high-pressure upselling is the norm.

Toll Roads by Country

European toll systems vary dramatically by country. France, Spain, Italy, and Portugal use pay-per-use toll booths on motorways, and costs add up fast. Driving from Paris to Nice on the autoroute costs roughly €75 in tolls alone. Italy’s autostrada from Milan to Rome runs about €45. You can pay by credit card at most booths.

Austria, Switzerland, Czech Republic, and Slovakia use a vignette system, a pre-purchased sticker or digital pass that allows motorway access for a set period. Austria’s 10-day vignette costs about €11.50 and is now available digitally. Switzerland requires an annual vignette for CHF 40. Driving without one risks fines of €120-200 or more. Your rental car may or may not come with the required vignettes, so always ask.

Italy’s ZTL Zones: The Silent Fine Machine

ZTL stands for Zona a Traffico Limitato, restricted traffic zones in Italian city centers. These are marked by small signs and monitored by automatic cameras. Drive into one without authorization, and a fine of €50-100 per infraction arrives at the rental company months later, who then charge your credit card plus an administrative fee of €30-50. Florence, Rome, Bologna, Pisa, Milan, and nearly every historic Italian city center has ZTL zones. Do not drive into any Italian city center. Park outside, use public transit or walk in. This is not optional advice.

Fuel Types and Parking

Diesel cars are common in European rental fleets. Know what fuel your car takes before filling up. Diesel nozzles are typically black and labeled Diesel or Gasoil. Petrol (gasoline) is usually green and labeled Super, Benzin, or Sans Plomb. Putting the wrong fuel in the tank is an expensive mistake that your insurance probably does not cover.

Parking in European cities is often confusing. Blue-lined spaces are paid (look for a parking meter), white lines are free, and yellow lines mean no parking. In many cities, you will need a parking disc (a cardboard clock you set to your arrival time) for time-limited zones. Your rental car should have one in the glovebox.

Driving in the United Kingdom

The UK drives on the left side of the road with the steering wheel on the right. This is genuinely disorienting for the first hour, particularly at roundabouts and when turning. If your trip includes the UK, consider picking up the car outside London (city driving on the wrong side is stressful) and sticking to rural areas where traffic is lighter and the scenery justifies a car. London itself is better navigated by Tube.

One final tip: fuel up before returning the car. Rental companies charge two to three times the pump price if they fill the tank for you.


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